The Bon Appétit Bake Club community has once again demonstrated its adventurous spirit and culinary curiosity, turning what was anticipated to be an "esoteric" recipe into a resounding success. The July recipe reveal, Shilpa Uskokovic’s Sweet Corn Butter Mochi With Coconut Crunch, initially sparked anxious whispers behind the scenes, with senior Test Kitchen editors Shilpa Uskokovic and Jesse Szweczyk bracing for a potentially divisive reception. Despite their trepidation, the unique combination of sweet corn in a delightfully bouncy butter mochi cake, made with sweet rice flour, was met with enthusiastic approval from the club’s confident and curious bakers. The recipe’s unexpected popularity underscores the vibrant engagement and open-mindedness that define the Bon Appétit Bake Club, a growing online community committed to exploring diverse baking concepts.
The Esoteric Challenge and Unexpected Triumph
The concept of integrating sweet corn, traditionally a savory ingredient, into a cake was a significant departure from conventional baking norms. Senior Test Kitchen Editor Jesse Szweczyk candidly admitted on the BA Bake Club Podcast, “We were not slightly worried. I was like, ‘This is gonna flop.’ This is it for us.” Shilpa Uskokovic echoed this sentiment, acknowledging the risk involved in pushing culinary boundaries within the club. This apprehension stemmed from the inherent novelty of the recipe: a butter mochi, itself a unique textural experience, further infused with the distinctive flavor of sweet corn and crowned with a coconut crunch. The editors’ concerns highlighted a common dilemma in recipe development: balancing innovation with widespread appeal. Culinary history is replete with examples of ingredients transitioning between savory and sweet domains, but directly incorporating corn into a cake of this type was perceived as a bold move.
However, the Bon Appétit Bake Club community, known for its willingness to explore new baking concepts and techniques, embraced the challenge with gusto. The recipe quickly became a hit, generating a wave of positive feedback and impressive photographic submissions across various platforms, including the Substack chat and Instagram. Shilpa Uskokovic expressed profound gratitude for the community’s engagement, stating, “I hope you guys know how much it means to us. I’m very touched every month when you guys bake our recipes, and we see you in the Substack chat and you post these pictures. So, this is very heartwarming for me.” This reciprocal relationship between the recipe developers and the baking community underscores the interactive and supportive nature of the Bon Appétit Bake Club, which aims to create "the nerdiest and most wholesome corner of the baking internet." This direct connection allows for real-time feedback and fosters a sense of shared culinary adventure, a crucial element in building a loyal online following.
Unpacking the Sweet Corn Butter Mochi: A Symphony of Texture and Flavor
Shilpa Uskokovic’s Sweet Corn Butter Mochi With Coconut Crunch is far more than a simple cake; it is an exploration of texture and an ingenious fusion of flavors. The recipe’s core lies in the butter mochi, a Hawaiian specialty that offers a distinctively chewy, bouncy consistency unlike traditional crumb-based cakes. Uskokovic vividly describes the texture as "Capital C chewy," likening it to "squishing down on very soft toasted milk bread" or even "the gummy bear of cakes." This unique mouthfeel is achieved primarily through the use of glutinous sweet rice flour, known as mochiko, which provides its characteristic elasticity. The cake, despite its unique composition, is also notably versatile in its serving temperature, maintaining its appealing texture whether consumed at room temperature or chilled, and keeping well for several days, making it an excellent candidate for meal prep or entertaining.
The development of this recipe was driven by a long-standing desire within the Test Kitchen to incorporate corn into a dessert. Jesse Szweczyk noted that the idea had been circulating "since the beginning" of the Bake Club. Initial brainstorming led to a "caramel corn flan" concept, envisioning a corn custard with caramel. However, this idea was set aside upon discovering the existing Mexican dessert, flan de elote, a corn-based flan already well-established in culinary traditions. Undeterred, Shilpa Uskokovic was "hellbent on getting corn into a dessert some way" and found butter mochi to be an ideal candidate due to its high liquid tolerance, which could accommodate the pureed corn without compromising the cake’s structural integrity.
The recipe itself is remarkably straightforward, beginning with fresh summer corn, ideally at its peak sweetness and tenderness (though frozen corn was also deemed acceptable during testing, particularly for those without access to fresh produce). The corn is stripped from the cob, then blended with eggs, melted butter, sweetened condensed milk, regular milk, salt, and a touch of vanilla. This corn-infused liquid is then combined with glutinous rice flour and baking powder. A crucial element is the coconut topping, added about three-quarters of the way through baking. This "coconut crunch" is a mixture of coconut flakes, sugar, butter, and a splash of milk, which caramelizes during the final baking stage to form a "crunchy whale" on top, reminiscent of a coconut feuilletine. This textural contrast between the chewy cake and the crisp topping is a key factor in the dessert’s appeal.
The topping’s development involved its own set of trials. An early suggestion to use cornflakes instead of coconut was thoroughly tested but ultimately abandoned due to practical issues. "They sogged out a lot," Jesse Szweczyk recalled, and the cornflakes failed to adhere properly, detaching from the cake upon removal from the pan. This iterative process highlights the meticulous nature of recipe development, where even seemingly good ideas are rigorously tested and sometimes discarded in pursuit of the perfect outcome. Shilpa ultimately returned to her original vision for the coconut topping, affirming the value of trusting one’s instincts in the face of feedback. The resulting cake, though described as "not a looker" or "understated" in its visual presentation, compensates with its complex flavors – sweet corn, caramel, and coconut – and its addictive texture. The cake is best enjoyed at room temperature, allowing its unique chewiness to fully develop, and keeps well for several days, making it an excellent candidate for meal prep or entertaining.
The Craft of Mochi: From Traditional Japanese Treat to Hawaiian Delicacy
To fully appreciate the Sweet Corn Butter Mochi, it’s essential to understand the origins and evolution of mochi. Traditionally, mochi is a Japanese treat made from short-grain glutinous rice that is steamed and then pounded into a sticky paste. This laborious process, often depicted with two men rhythmically pounding rice with large wooden hammers, results in a chewy, soft, and moist product. Traditional mochi can be eaten fresh, filled with sweet red bean paste (anko), or rolled in kinako (roasted soybean powder). It is also famously served with ice cream, as seen in daifuku mochi. This ancient culinary technique forms the foundational understanding for its modern adaptations.
Butter mochi, however, is a distinct "beast," primarily associated with Hawaii. Its origins are multi-faceted, often attributed to Japanese immigrants who brought mochi-making techniques to the islands. Over time, the recipe evolved to incorporate shelf-stable ingredients like sweetened condensed milk or evaporated milk, becoming a staple in Hawaiian baking. Katherine Yang, an expert pastry chef, notes its resemblance to nian gao, a Chinese New Year dessert also made with glutinous sticky rice and brown sugar, suggesting broader Asian culinary influences. Some theories even connect butter mochi to Portuguese and Indian desserts due to similar chewy textures, indicating a rich cross-cultural culinary exchange in the Pacific. Shilpa Uskokovic’s recipe is a modern spin, maintaining the foundational elements while ingeniously adjusting the liquid component to accommodate the corn puree, ensuring the characteristic chewiness remains uncompromised. The choice of mochiko (glutinous sweet rice flour) is critical here, as regular rice flour would result in a dry, crumbly texture devoid of the desired elasticity. This naturally gluten-free flour makes the cake accessible to a wider audience, a significant advantage in contemporary baking.
Community Spotlight: Baker of the Month and Broader Engagement
The Bake Club’s interactive nature was perfectly exemplified by the selection of Jason P. as "Baker of the Month." Jason earned this distinction for an unexpectedly brilliant pairing: serving his Sweet Corn Butter Mochi alongside barbecue pork and a summer vegetable slaw, effectively treating it like cornbread. Jesse Szweczyk, acknowledging his Midwestern roots where corn and savory dishes are intertwined, found the savory application perfectly logical. Shilpa Uskokovic enthusiastically declared, "Jason, you (bleep) me up with this one, I’ll be honest. I was like, ‘Why didn’t I think of this?’" Jason’s bold move not only showcased the recipe’s adaptability but also reinforced the idea that culinary boundaries are meant to be explored, even suggesting "Corn mochi cake is the new cornbread." This incident highlights the dynamic creativity fostered within the Bake Club community, where members are encouraged to experiment beyond the recipe’s explicit instructions.
The Bon Appétit Bake Club’s dedication to fostering a connected community is evident in its various engagement channels. Bakers are encouraged to comment on recipes via bonappetit.com or the Epicurious app, participate in the lively Substack chat, and email questions or pictures of their creations to [email protected]. This direct line of communication allows the editors to address specific queries, troubleshoot common issues, and celebrate the successes of their members, making the experience truly collaborative and enriching. The visual component of sharing finished bakes, especially on platforms like Instagram, not only inspires other members but also provides invaluable feedback to the recipe developers.
A Taste of Hawaii: Interview with Pastry Chef Katherine Yang
Further enriching the discussion around butter mochi, the Bake Club podcast virtually "jetted off to Hawaii" to interview Katherine Yang, the Executive Pastry Chef at Mille Fête in Honolulu’s Chinatown. Yang brings nearly three decades of experience to the table, having honed her skills with culinary titans like Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller before running her successful by-order cake bakery, Gigi Blue, in New York City starting around 2011. Her career trajectory is a testament to dedication: from a brief stint in real estate to pursuing her passion at the French Culinary Institute in New York City, a move her immigrant parents initially opposed but later supported. Her eventual relocation to Hawaii post-COVID, around 2022, was a significant shift, driven by a desire for collaboration and a new creative environment, partnering with Chuck Busler and Robin Myee.
Yang’s baking philosophy emphasizes making "delicious food that people could enjoy," steering away from overly "precious" or "arts and craft" desserts. Her menu often features beloved recipes created for family and friends, or recreations of nostalgic treats that are difficult to find. She provided invaluable insights into Hawaii’s vibrant dessert scene, describing it as "very robust" and deeply ingrained in the local culture. The strong Japanese influence is particularly evident in the tradition of omiyage (gift-giving culture), where homemade goods and bakery treats are frequently exchanged during visits, celebrations, and returns from trips. This cultural practice fuels a thriving ecosystem of bakeries offering everything from traditional Japanese-style sweets to cross-cultural Asian-inspired desserts and exquisite viennoiseries. Yang confidently asserts, "You could spend days and days visiting so many bakeries… you will never go hungry, you will always find something good to eat here at any of the bakeries here in Hawaii," painting a picture of a dynamic and diverse culinary landscape.
Katherine Yang’s Expertise: The Nuances of Butter Mochi
During her interview, Katherine Yang shared crucial insights into what makes a truly great butter mochi. For her, the "right texture" is paramount: it "can’t be too loose, it has to be a good chew." She referenced the Taiwanese concept of "QQ" texture, beloved by Chinese and Taiwanese people for its desirable chewiness and bounce, a characteristic highly sought after in many Asian desserts. However, Yang emphasized that the "most important texture for me in butter mochi is the crisp edges and outside." This caramelized crust, developed by baking the mochi long enough, creates a perfect textural contrast with the soft, chewy interior. She recommended eating butter mochi straight from the oven to fully appreciate this contrast, as the crust softens over time. For those seeking maximum crispiness, she even suggested using brownie pans designed to give every piece an edge, a clever hack for achieving optimal texture.
Addressing a common concern among Bake Club members about overbaking mochi, Yang offered reassuring advice: "I’ve never over baked butter mochi. In fact, I try to go longer just to get that crust." She explained that, unlike delicate sponge cakes, mochi cake does not easily dry out, possessing an inherent "insurance" against overbaking when the correct recipe is followed. This practical guidance provided significant relief and confidence to bakers navigating a new dessert form, enabling them to focus on achieving the desired crisp exterior without fear of ruining the interior.
Demystifying Baking Ingredients: Condensed vs. Evaporated Milk
A frequent source of confusion in baking, particularly in recipes like butter mochi, is the distinction between sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk. Katherine Yang clarified this crucial difference, noting that evaporated milk has reduced water content but no added sugar, making it suitable for savory applications like mac and cheese or for adding richness to puddings and flans without masking flavors or adding excessive fat. Sweetened condensed milk, conversely, is both reduced in water and heavily sweetened with sugar. Yang stressed that these two ingredients are not interchangeable, a point that often "trips up people" in recipes calling simply for "condensed milk." Her expert explanation provided valuable clarity for home bakers, highlighting how subtle ingredient differences can significantly impact a recipe’s outcome. She even revealed that evaporated milk is used at Mille Fête for making ice cream, showcasing its versatility beyond common savory uses.
The Future of Bake Club: August’s Plum Cheesecake Karpatka
As the July Sweet Corn Butter Mochi continues its reign as a community favorite, the Bon Appétit Bake Club has already unveiled its August challenge: a Plum Cheesecake Karpatka. Jesse Szweczyk described this upcoming recipe as a "magnificent mountain of a dessert" and a "spectacle." A karpatka is a traditional Polish dessert, typically featuring two round discs of pâte à choux (choux pastry) that are unevenly puffed, resembling the Carpathian Mountains (from which the dessert derives its name). These pastry layers traditionally sandwich a crème mousseline or a lightened pastry cream.
For the Bake Club’s rendition, Szweczyk has reimagined this classic, transforming the filling into a no-bake cheesecake ribboned with a plum jam. This "wild" and dramatic dessert is designed to be make-ahead friendly, a practical consideration for home bakers. It requires gelatin powder for the cheesecake filling and ideally two nine-inch round cake pans (though one can suffice with proper technique). The Plum Cheesecake Karpatka promises another opportunity for the Bake Club community to expand their baking repertoire, tackle new techniques, and share their impressive creations with fellow enthusiasts, further solidifying the club’s reputation as a hub for confident and curious bakers.
Engagement and Community Building
The Bon Appétit Bake Club, spearheaded by Senior Test Kitchen Editors Jesse Szweczyk and Shilpa Uskokovic, continues to foster a dynamic and supportive environment for bakers of all skill levels. By offering unique and sometimes challenging recipes, providing detailed guidance through the accompanying podcast, and actively engaging with its members, the club not only educates but also inspires. The success of the Sweet Corn Butter Mochi, a recipe initially fraught with editorial doubt, serves as a testament to the community’s adventurous spirit and the rewarding nature of culinary exploration. The enthusiasm of members like Jason P., who innovatively adapted the recipe, and the insights from experts like Katherine Yang, enrich the experience for everyone involved. As the club moves forward with its Plum Cheesecake Karpatka, it reinforces its commitment to demystifying complex baking concepts and celebrating the joy of baking together. The podcast, produced by Emily Elias with editing by Michele O’Brien and research by Ryan
