Variety Coffee Roasters has officially marked a significant milestone in its nearly two-decade journey, opening its tenth New York City location in the vibrant Greenpoint neighborhood. This expansion into Greenpoint Landing, situated within the historic Astral building at 190 Franklin Street, signifies a consistent and deliberate growth trajectory for the Brooklyn-born company, adding to its established presence across Brooklyn, Manhattan, and Queens. The opening in June represents the culmination of slow-and-steady expansion since the company’s inception in 2008, solidifying its reputation as a reliable purveyor of quality coffee and a welcoming community hub.
The establishment of Variety Coffee Roasters can be traced back to the initial vision of founder Gavin Compton. While his original aspiration was to open a restaurant, the accessible entry point into the hospitality industry presented itself through a coffee shop. This strategic pivot in 2008 led to the launch of Variety’s first cafe in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. This foundational location set the stage for an 18-year evolution that has seen the brand meticulously build its footprint across the city. Compton’s entrepreneurial spirit extends beyond Variety, with his involvement or ownership in several other notable New York City dining establishments, including Three Decker Diner, Blue Collar, Ops, and Leo, showcasing a broader commitment to the city’s culinary and hospitality landscape.
A Philosophy of Unpretentious Hospitality
Central to Variety Coffee Roasters’ enduring success is its unwavering commitment to a service philosophy that founder Gavin Compton describes as "unpretentious, warm, and fun." This ethos is deeply ingrained in the training and culture of its baristas. "We train our baristas to be experts in coffee, but egoless in delivery, so that every single person who comes through the door feels comfortable and excited to be there," Compton stated. This approach prioritizes genuine connection and accessibility, ensuring that both seasoned coffee aficionados and casual visitors feel equally valued and at ease. This focus on customer experience, rather than an overtly exclusive or intimidating atmosphere, has been a key differentiator in the competitive New York City coffee scene.
Design Influences and Collaborative Spirit
The design of the new Greenpoint cafe reflects a thoughtful and collaborative approach, a hallmark of Variety’s expansion strategy. For this latest venture, Variety partnered with longtime collaborator Kursten Bracchi, an interior designer who has been instrumental in shaping the aesthetic of six of the company’s cafes. The design for the Greenpoint location drew inspiration from mid-century Italian cafes, a style that complements the architectural character of the Astral building. "We started with post-war Italian cafes as inspiration, allowing the existing space to help dictate the eventual design," Compton explained. This approach ensures that each Variety location possesses its own unique identity while maintaining a cohesive brand experience.
The construction and execution of the Greenpoint cafe were also a testament to the company’s internal talent and long-standing relationships. Ky, the contractor who oversaw the build, is described by Compton as an "original Variety cast member." This internal collaboration highlights the company’s commitment to fostering talent and leveraging the expertise of individuals who have grown with the brand. Their contributions were crucial in refining the details that contribute to the cafe’s welcoming ambiance.
A Streamlined Menu Focused on Quality
Variety Coffee Roasters maintains a deliberate simplicity in its menu offerings, focusing on core coffee and beverage staples. The Greenpoint cafe, like its sister locations, features a curated selection of espresso drinks, meticulously brewed coffee, cold brew, and teas. This minimalist approach extends to their pastry offerings, ensuring a focus on quality and ease of choice for customers. "We try to keep everything we offer both simple and good, so the choices are always easy for our customers," Compton commented. This strategy not only streamlines operations but also allows the quality of the coffee itself to take center stage.
The Art of Roasting: A Commitment to Craft
The foundation of Variety’s beverage program lies in its dedicated roasting operations. The company’s coffee is meticulously roasted at their East Williamsburg roastery, equipped with a powerful 70-kilogram Loring roaster for larger batches and a 15-kilogram Loring for smaller, more specialized roasts. This commitment to in-house roasting, which began in 2014 within their Bushwick cafe and moved to the dedicated East Williamsburg facility in 2019, allows for stringent quality control and the development of distinct flavor profiles.
The roasting program is spearheaded by Director of Coffee Patrick Grzelewski and Head Roaster Allin Cogen. Their expertise is crucial in sourcing and developing coffees that align with Variety’s brand. The company’s coffee selection predominantly features washed-process coffees sourced from renowned coffee-growing regions such as Latin America, Ethiopia, and Kenya. Among the current seasonal offerings are notable examples like coffees from Finca La Toboba in Costa Rica, including two distinct red-honey-process coffees, showcasing a commitment to exploring diverse processing methods. Additionally, a certified-organic washed-process coffee from the Duromina cooperative in Ethiopia highlights Variety’s dedication to ethical sourcing and supporting cooperative farming models.
State-of-the-Art Equipment for Optimal Extraction
The Greenpoint cafe is outfitted with high-caliber equipment designed to ensure the optimal extraction and presentation of their coffee. Espresso is prepared using Mahlkönig E80W GBS and E65T GBS espresso grinders, paired with a striking, hand-painted three-group La Marzocco Linea PB ABR espresso machine. This combination of precision grinding and a top-tier espresso machine underscores Variety’s investment in producing consistently excellent espresso-based beverages. For batch brewing and cold brew, a Mahlkönig Guatemala shop grinder is employed, complemented by Fetco equipment for batch brewing, further reinforcing the company’s dedication to quality across all brewing methods.
Consistent Quality as a Hallmark
While the name "Variety" suggests a broad range of offerings, the company’s true strength lies in the consistency of quality across its expanding network of cafes. This commitment to uniformity ensures that customers can expect the same high standard of coffee and service, regardless of which Variety location they visit. This reliability has been instrumental in building customer loyalty and fostering a strong brand identity in a highly competitive market.
A Milestone Achieved, A Future Embraced
Reaching the ten-location mark represents a significant achievement for Variety Coffee Roasters, particularly within the demanding landscape of New York City. "Variety Coffee just reached its 18th year, and it feels very special to have established both a retail and wholesale presence in our hometown of NYC," Compton reflected. "We’re very grateful to still be part of the specialty coffee and hospitality communities in this singular city that we love.” This statement underscores a deep-seated connection to the city and a gratitude for the ongoing support from its vibrant communities.
The continued expansion of Variety Coffee Roasters is not merely about increasing physical presence; it is about reinforcing a brand ethos built on quality, community, and an unpretentious approach to hospitality. As the company looks to the future, its established operational frameworks, commitment to design, and dedication to the craft of coffee roasting position it for continued success and influence within the New York City coffee scene and beyond. The Greenpoint location serves as a testament to this enduring vision, a new chapter in a story of consistent delivery and thoughtful growth.
