The Purl stands as a curious relic of British liquid history, a beverage that has undergone a radical transformation from a bitter medicinal tonic into a simplified two-ingredient staple of the modern craft cocktail movement. In contemporary bar culture, the drink is most frequently defined as a straightforward combination of ale and a measure of gin, typically served at cellar temperature. Historical analysis reveals, however, that this modern iteration is merely the final, stripped-down stage of a cocktail that once boasted a complex profile of botanicals, proteins, and thermal preparation. To understand the Purl is to trace the history of London itself, moving from the desperate medical crises of the 17th century through the industrial morning rituals of the 18th century, and finally to the standardized mixology of the 20th century.
The Seventeenth Century Origins: A Bitter Defense Against the Plague
The earliest documented iterations of the Purl bear little resemblance to the gin-heavy concoctions found in modern cocktail manuals. During the 1600s, the drink was primarily recognized as a medicinal infusion. The core component was not a spirit, but rather wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), a bitter herb long associated with digestive health and the warding off of parasites. In 1665, the publication "Directions for the Prevention and Cure of the Plague Fitted for the Poorer Sort" recommended the consumption of Purl as a preventative measure. The text specifically advised the "poorer sort"—those who could not afford expensive apothecaries—to take "a draught or two of Purle… especially in the morning."
At this stage in history, Purl was essentially an "absinthe ale." Wormwood was steeped in ale or sometimes wine to create a bitter, fortifying tonic. The "purl" name itself is thought by some etymologists to derive from the French "perler," meaning to bead or bubble, though its exact linguistic origins remain a subject of academic debate. Because the 17th-century palate was accustomed to heavier, more herbaceous flavors, and because water sources were often unreliable, the infusion of bitter herbs into fermented grain beverages served both a social and a sanitary function.
The Eighteenth Century: The Rise of the Purl-Shop and Morning Drinking
As London entered the 18th century, the Purl transitioned from a strictly medicinal draught into a recreational habit, albeit one still shrouded in the guise of a "morning constitutional." This era saw the emergence of "Purl-shops," specialized establishments that catered to laborers, sailors, and the urban working class. It was during this period that spirits began to find their way into the mix. As the "Gin Craze" took hold of London in the mid-1700s, the addition of a "dash" of spirits to a bitter ale became a common method for increasing the potency of a morning beverage.
The social perception of the drink began to shift from a health tonic to a signifier of vice. In a September 1733 edition of "The Grub Street Journal," the Purl was mentioned in a disparaging light, linked to the excessive consumption of tobacco and gin. The journal described a character whose morning routine involved the consumption of "Pots of Purle," suggesting that the drink had become a staple of those living on the fringes of polite society. Despite this reputation, the beverage was not limited to ale; records from 1684, such as "Aphorisms upon the New Way of Improving Cyder," indicate that the cider industry also attempted to capitalize on the trend, asserting that "purl wide cider" was as effective and palatable as the ale-based version.
The Victorian Era: Culinary Complexity and the Victorian Flip
The 19th century represented the peak of the Purl’s complexity. No longer just a bitter ale, the Victorian Purl evolved into a category of drink known as a "flip." This version involved heating the ale and incorporating eggs, sugar, and various spices such as nutmeg or ginger. The spirits used were no longer limited to gin; brandy and whiskey were also common additions depending on the patron’s preference and budget.
William Terrington’s 1869 volume, "Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks," often cited as the first definitive British cocktail book, provides a window into this elaborate preparation. Terrington’s recipes describe the "Early Bird" or "Purl" as a warmed beverage featuring multiple eggs whisked into the ale. This version functioned more like a liquid meal than a modern cocktail, providing caloric density and warmth for workers facing the damp London climate. While Terrington included a specific "Ale Cup" that called for gin, the generic "Purl" of the mid-Victorian era was a broader category of fortified, spiced, and heated ale.
The gin of this era would have been "Old Tom" style—a sweeter, more botanical-forward precursor to the modern London Dry gin. When paired with a traditional British Bitter, the result was a rich, malty, and herbaceous profile that modern drinkers might find closer to a mulled wine or a heavy stout than a gin and tonic.
The Twentieth Century: Standardization and the Disappearance of Wormwood
The transition into the 20th century saw the Purl undergo a process of simplification driven by the professionalization of bartending and the changing demands of the consumer. The time-consuming process of heating ale and whisking eggs fell out of favor in fast-paced urban bars. Simultaneously, the medicinal use of wormwood in common beverages declined as modern pharmacology replaced traditional herbal tonics.
By 1925, publications like Mrs. Leyel’s "Summer Drinks and Winter Cordials" began to reflect a more streamlined recipe. While the warming of the ale remained a common practice for winter variations, the eggs and complex spice blends were increasingly omitted. The 1935 manual "The Art of Mixing Drinks" and the 1966 "The Barman’s Bible" (Cocktail and Wine Digest) finalized the definition that we recognize today: gin, ale, and perhaps a dash of bitters.
In this modern context, the Purl became a "boilermaker" variant. The gin provided the botanical high notes and alcoholic punch, while the ale provided the bitter, malty base. The historical bittering agent—wormwood—was replaced by commercial cocktail bitters or simply by the natural bitterness of the hops in the ale.
Chronology of the Purl’s Evolution
- 1660s: Purl emerges as a medicinal infusion of wormwood in ale or wine, recommended as a preventative for the Great Plague of London.
- 1680s: Variations appear using cider instead of ale, demonstrating the drink’s popularity across different fermented bases.
- 1730s: The Purl becomes a social beverage associated with the London working class and the early stages of the Gin Craze. It is frequently consumed as a morning drink.
- 1860s: The "Victorian Flip" era. Purl reaches its most complex form, involving heat, eggs, sugar, and spices. Gin is one of several spirit options.
- 1920s: Post-WWI bar culture simplifies the recipe. The "flip" elements (eggs) are removed, but the spirit-and-ale core remains.
- 1960s-Present: The definition stabilizes as a combination of gin and ale, often served cold or at cellar temperature, losing its association with morning consumption and medicinal use.
Analysis of Implications and Cultural Impact
The trajectory of the Purl offers a fascinating case study in how economic and social factors dictate the evolution of recipes. In the 17th century, the "poorer sort" drank Purl because it was a cheap way to access the perceived health benefits of wormwood. In the 19th century, the addition of eggs and heat transformed it into a functional beverage for manual laborers requiring high energy. In the 21st century, its revival in "speakeasy" style bars is driven by a nostalgic interest in historical authenticity and the unique flavor profile created by the interaction of gin botanicals and malt.
Furthermore, the Purl’s evolution mirrors the history of gin itself. As gin moved from a cheap, unregulated "mother’s ruin" to a refined, dry spirit, the Purl moved from a harsh, bitter tonic to a sophisticated, layered cocktail. The modern preference for London Dry gin in a Purl creates a much cleaner, more juniper-forward experience than the historical versions that utilized the sweeter Old Tom gins.
For the modern hospitality industry, the Purl represents an opportunity to explore "low-waste" and "high-flavor" combinations. Because the drink relies on the synergy between two common bar staples—beer and gin—it requires no specialized syrups or perishable juices. However, for those seeking to recreate the historical experience, the challenge remains in balancing the bitterness. The modern palate is generally less tolerant of the intense bitterness of wormwood, leading many craft bartenders to use Italian amari or concentrated bitters to bridge the gap between the 17th-century medicinal draught and the 21st-century social drink.
Conclusion
The Purl is a survivor of London’s turbulent history. While its ingredients have changed—from wormwood and ale to eggs, spices, and spirits, and finally to just gin and beer—its identity as a fortifying, bitter beverage has remained intact for over 350 years. As craft cocktail enthusiasts continue to mine the past for inspiration, the Purl stands as a reminder that the line between medicine and recreation has always been thin, and that a simple "shot in a beer" can carry the weight of centuries of tradition.
